BY ANN CIPPERLY
On a recent sunny morning, Penney Varner was in her spacious kitchen in the Northside Historic District preparing a pot of green chili to serve with hominy and pinto beans that were simmering on the stove. Penney and her husband, John, both enjoy southwestern New Mexican recipes. Their home decor reflects their years living in the west, blending with southern antiques from John’s family.
Penney and John lived in southern Colorado and outside Taos, New Mexico, and also traveled extensively through both states savoring the foods and collecting Native American art. They then moved to Encampment, Wyoming, a small town in south central Wyoming with a population of 400. When John retired, they moved to Opelika in November 2019.
John, who grew up in Tuskegee, moved to southern Colorado to work with the U.S. Forest Service after graduating from Auburn University. He was working on the Rio Grande National Forest when he met Penney, who was attending Adams State College, a teacher’s college in Alamosa, Colorado.
Penney was raised in Colorado Springs, Colorado. Her father was from southern Colorado, while her mother’s family lived in northern Colorado where there were many farm communities and truck farms. The family had a large garden and canned vegetables during summer.
Her mother was a registered dietician for 40 years at Penrose hospital, and her father worked for Holly Sugar, a beet sugar company. Penney’s mother was a good cook and enjoyed preparing nutritious meals for the family.
After graduating from college, Penney taught summer migrant school for three years in southern Colorado’s San Luis Valley. The migrant families followed the harvest of crops. While Penney didn’t speak Spanish fluently, she had an aide who did. She also taught school in Denver for three years.
After Penney and John married, he was transferred to the Medicine Bow National Forest in southern Wyoming and Penney continued her teaching career for the next 15 years. They lived there for 33 years before moving to Opelika.
Over the years, the Varners visited John’s mother, Betty Torbet, who lives in Auburn. They were familiar with the area and knew they wanted to move here when John retired, as he has family history going back to the 1700s. His great-great-grandfather settled in Tuskegee. His grandfather was a well-known probate judge in Macon county.
Penney and John moved to an early 1900s historic house that had been expanded in the 1950s and restored later by Lucinda Samford Cannon. The Varners are enjoying the area and being on the Victorian Front Porch Tour.
While their home is well decorated, the piano is one of Penney’s most treasured family items. Her family moved west from Chicago in the mid-1800s settling in Longmont, Colorado. Her great-great grandmother had the piano sent to Denver on the train from Chicago and then it was transferred by wagon to Longmont, where it stayed in the same house over 100 years. Penney inherited it and moved it to Alabama.
Most of the rooms in their home are filled with Native American art, including baskets, pottery, Navajo rugs and other items. The baskets and Navajo rugs are stunning in the historic home. The art has been purchased directly from the rug weavers, reservation trading posts, art galleries and auctions in the four corners region of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah. Penney has documented where each item was acquired.
They have about 60 handwoven baskets from the Hopi reservation, which is located in the middle of the Navajo reservation. The baskets are made of yucca, a drought tolerant species, with long, stiff sword shaped leaves. Every basket is different, and each pattern has meanings. An antique secretary desk from John’s family displays Pueblo pottery and other collections.
In the kitchen, Penney’s great-grandmother’s Sellers hutch is another treasured family piece. On one side of the hutch is a flour grinder, and the shelves contain many of her great-grandmother’s tins that held sugar and other ingredients for baking. The Sellers hutch was popular from the late 19th century and kept kitchen equipment, dry goods and utensils organized and accessible.
Penney enjoys preparing southwestern New Mexican recipes derived from Native American, Spanish colonization and territorial cooking practices. This cuisine is most popular in New Mexico, Colorado and Arizona. Southwestern food is distinguished by the use of chili peppers as the primary seasoning.
“I am a green chili fanatic,” she said. “I love green chili and put it on everything.”
Her favorite green chilies come from the Hatch Valley in New Mexico. The green chilies are harvested in the fall and placed in big barrels, which are turned over a spit to roast them. After they have cooled, the skin of the chilies are removed. “There is nothing like the aroma,” Penney said. “The fresh chilies are used to make delicious green chili sauce or stew.”
Penney cannot find green chilies in east Alabama except for the very small cans, which are not exactly the same. She orders canned Hatch and Ortega whole roasted green chilies from Amazon. She is sharing a couple of green chili recipes and a variety of other favorites from her family.
The Varners are enjoying retirement life in the Historic District. Penney has become involved in Opelika, serving on the board for the Museum of East Alabama and Historic Preservation Society. She is also a part of the East Alabama Civic Chorale, the choir at Trinity Church and a study club.
“Opelika has been delightful,” said Penney. “I am so pleased with the people, and there are so many things to do. When we lived in Wyoming all those years, we didn’t even have a grocery store, and medical care was 90 miles away.”
Look over Penney’s southwestern New Mexican recipes as well as her family’s recipes and try something new for your family this coming week.
Jalapeno Cornbread
½ lb. sausage or bacon
½ cup sifted all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
2 tsp. sugar (or honey)
¾ tsp. salt
1 1/2 cups cornmeal
1 egg, beaten
3 Tbsp. melted butter
¾ cup buttermilk
½ cup canned corn (drained) or fresh whole kernel corn
¼ cup canned diced mild jalapeno chilies (drained) or drained green chilies may be substituted
¼ cup diced pimientos
Fry sausage or bacon until crisp; drain and save drippings. Sift flour, baking powder and sugar (add honey with the liquid ingredients if not using sugar). Stir in cornmeal. Set aside.
Combine egg, melted butter and buttermilk (and honey if substituting for sugar). Stir into dry ingredients. Add corn, jalapeno chili and fried meat. Mix until just blended. The batter will be stiff.
Pour hot meat drippings into a 1 and 1/2 quart casserole to a depth of 1/8-inch. Spoon in batter, bake at 375 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean.
Fresh and Chunky Guacamole
3 ripe avocados, peeled and pitted
2 Tbsp. lime or lemon juice
4 Tbsp. chopped jalapenos or green chili drained (optional)
¼ cup cilantro, chopped
1 thin slice of white onion, chopped very fine
1 clove garlic, mashed with ½ tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. white pepper
Cut avocados into chunks and place in the bottom of a medium sized bowl. Mash all ingredients with a fork until desired chunkiness is reached.
Serve with taco chips, warm tortillas, use as a spread, or serve on a bed of shredded lettuce and diced tomato for a delicious salad.
Flour Tortillas
Makes 6, approximately 7-inch tortillas
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
2 Tbsp. lard
¾ cup warm water
Sift together flour, salt and baking powder into a large mixing bowl. Mix the lard into dry ingredients with fingertips to combine. Add about half of warm water, working it into the mixture. Add remaining water, working dough until a sticky ball forms.
Lightly dust a pastry board with flour and knead dough for 1 minute until mixture is soft but no longer sticky. Let dough rest covered with a damp cloth for about 15 minutes. Divide into six balls, cover again with damp cloth, and it let rest for another 15 to 30 minutes.
Dust pastry board with flour. Place each dough ball between two pieces of waxed paper. Pat and push each dough ball into a disk about 3 to 4-inches in diameter and ¼ inch thick. Next, using a rolling pin, roll each disk into an approximately 7-inch circle. Heat a griddle or heavy skillet over high heat for 5 minutes. Remove waxed paper and cook each tortilla for about 30 seconds on each side or until dough appears dry and a few brown speckles form on both surfaces. Serve warm.
Traditional Posole
(Pueblo/Spanish soup)
1 cup frozen white or yellow hominy, rinsed and drained
½ lb. cubed pork shoulder
8 cups water
3 celery ribs, chopped fine
1 small yellow onion, chopped fine
1 tsp. garlic salt, plus additional to taste
2 dried red chili pods, rinsed
Place frozen hominy in a large heavy stockpot and cover with 8 cups water. Add remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered. Periodically check the water level, adding a little additional water if necessary. Check hominy (posole) at 15-minute intervals and continue to simmer until puffed and tender. Total cooking time should be 1-1/2 to 2 hours. At the end of cooking time, most of the water should be absorbed. Serve with desired garnishes and warm tortillas. Serves 8.
Gazpacho
A thick, rich chilled soup
8 whole peeled and chopped plum tomatoes
1 cup canned tomatoes with juice
2 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded and chopped
½ medium bell pepper, chopped
1 small yellow onion, chopped
½ cup beef broth
1 1/2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 heaping tsp. dried basil
2 garlic cloves, minced
¼ tsp. tabasco sauce
Salt and pepper to taste
Croutons for garnish, if desired
Combine the fresh tomatoes and all other ingredients in a large bowl. Mix gently. Chill the gazpacho for at least one hour. Spoon into individual bowls and garnish with croutons, if desired.
Serves 4 to 6.
Chili Relleno Casserole
2/3 cup uncooked rice
1 can (8 oz.) tomato sauce
¼ cup green onion, sliced
¾ tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. oregano
1 can (16 oz.) vegetarian refried beans
1 can (10 oz.) diced green chiles, drained
¾ cup sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cook rice according to package direction. Combine tomato sauce, onions, garlic powder and oregano; set aside. Spray a 1 and 1/2 quart casserole dish with no-stick cooking spray.
Mix beans and cooked rice together. Spread half of bean/rice mixture in the bottom of casserole dish. Layer with chopped chilies and shredded cheese. Cover with remaining bean/rice mixture, pour the seasoned tomato sauce over the top.
Bake for 30 minutes. If desired, garnish with more shredded cheese before serving. Servings 6
Oatmeal Cake
This is everyone’s favorite. There won’t be a crumb left.
Cake:
1 cup quick oats
1 1/2 cup boiling water
1 cup butter
1 cup white sugar
1 cup brown sugar
2 unbeaten eggs
¼ cup canned milk
1 tsp. pure vanilla
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
½ tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda
1 Tbsp. cinnamon
Topping:
¼ cup butter.
1 cup brown sugar
¼ cup canned milk
1 tsp. pure vanilla
½ cup coconut
½ cup walnuts or pecans, chopped
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour 13 x 9-inch oblong baking pan.
In a bowl, pour boiling water over quick oats, set aside and let stand for 20 minutes. In the meantime, in a large mixing bowl, cream together butter, white sugar and brown sugar. Stir in eggs, canned milk, vanilla and mix well. Stir in oatmeal mixture. Next, sift together flour, salt, baking soda and cinnamon. Add dry ingredients to creamed mixture. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes. Remove cake from oven.
Prepare Topping: in a medium saucepan, bring butter, brown sugar and canned milk to a gentle boil. Remove from heat. Fold in vanilla, coconut and nuts. Pour topping over warm cake and broil until topping bubbles and coconut is lightly brown.
Chicken Breasts with Swiss Cheese and Ham
One of my mother’s favorite recipes
12 boneless skinless chicken breasts
12 slices open eye Swiss cheese
12 thin slices of boiled ham
2 eggs, beaten slightly
Flour
Breadcrumbs
Oil
¾ cup butter
½ cup white wine
Use a meat tenderizer to pound each chicken breast until flat. On each breast, place 1 slice cheese and 1 slice ham. Roll tightly and skewer with a toothpick. Roll in flour, dip in beaten egg, roll in breadcrumbs.
In a skillet, brown each rolled breast in a small amount of oil. Layer in a baking dish. In a saucepan, melt butter and add wine; simmer about five minutes and pour over chicken.
Bake at 375 degrees for 45 to 50 minutes. Delicious served with rice. Makes 12 servings
Grandma’s Scotch Shortbread
1 lb. butter, softened
1 cup powdered sugar
4 cups all-purpose flour
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Cream butter and powdered sugar. Gradually add flour, mixing well with the hands. Turn out on lightly floured pastry board. Pat dough into 2 circles about ½ inch thick and place each circle in a separate pie pan.
Bake for 1 hour or until shortbread is golden, but not brown. Cut into triangles pieces while still warm.
Christmas Eve Salad
(Ensalada de Nochebuena)
Salad:
4 large oranges, peeled and sectioned
12 oz. jicama peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 medium bananas
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
Whole romaine leaves or shredded iceberg lettuce leaves
¼ cup chopped peanuts
Seeds of 1 pomegranate
Dressing:
1 medium lime
½ cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. honey
1 Tbsp. cider vinegar
1 tsp. ground dried red chili flakes
1 clove garlic, minced
Salt
Prepare dressing. Using a zester or paring knife, remove the green layer of the lime’s peel. Cut lime in half and squeeze juice from both pieces. Combine and blend the lime juice, zest and the remaining dressing ingredients in a blender until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Prepare salad. Mix orange sections and jicama matchsticks in a bowl and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Shortly before serving, peel bananas. Add slices to orange and jicama mixture. Toss with the salad dressing and cilantro.
Line a serving platter with romaine or shredded iceberg lettuce and spoon and mound salad on the platter. Top with peanuts and pomegranate seeds and serve. Serves six.
Butter Cookies
Both my grandma and mother used this recipe for special and delicious Christmas cookies.
2 1/2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
¼ tsp. salt
1 cup butter
1 cup granulated sugar
1 unbeaten egg
2 tsp. pure vanilla
Sift flour with salt. Set aside. Cream butter with an electric mixer. Gradually add sugar, creaming well. Blend in egg and vanilla. Beat well.
Gradually add dry ingredients. Mix well. If dough is sticky, add a little more flour.
Flour pastry board and rolling pin. Roll out cookie dough. Cut shapes with a cookie cutter or use a cookie press. Decorate as desired.
Bake on cookie sheet in preheated 350 degree oven for 7 to 10 minutes. I usually double the recipe. Makes one dozen cookies.
Biscochitos
Anise sugar cookies.
Makes approximately four dozen cookies.
Topping:
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/3 cup sugar
Cookie Dough:
1 lb. lard
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs
2 tsp. anise seeds
6 cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
¼ cup anisette or other sweet anise-flavored liqueur
¼ cup heavy cream
2 tsp. pure vanilla
For the topping, combine sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl and set aside.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Cream together lard and sugar with an electric mixer until fluffy. Add the eggs and anise seeds and blend well.
Sift together flour, baking powder and salt and gradually add the dry ingredients to the mixer. Beat only until a crumbly dough is formed. Pour in anisette (or sweet anise flavored liqueur), cream and vanilla. Mix together just briefly.
Flour a pastry board and rolling pin. Divide and roll the dough to ¼-inch thickness. Cut dough into decorative shapes with a cookie cutter. Place cookies on ungreased baking sheets.
Hint: For the flakiest biscochitos, do not reroll or handle dough any more than necessary.
Sprinkle top of each cookie using about half of the cinnamon sugar topping. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes or until golden. Remove from the oven and sprinkle the cookies again with more cinnamon sugar mixture.
